• Colchester Mascot 1600 Manual

Colchester Mascot 1600 Service Manual.pdf Colchester Mascot 1600 Service Manual Colchester Mascot 1600 Service Manual Author. Colchester mascot 1600 lathe manual - Duration: 0:27. Jimmie Stark 271 views. Machining a long shaft on the colchester mastiff - Duration: 1:12.

I tried this in another forum with no luck, maybe this is the right one. I have a chance to buy this lathe for $1500 but it has a couple problems and was wondering what the chances were for an easy, cheap fix.

#1 The drive clutch linkage has been disconnected I guess, because the lever just flops up and down and does nothing. The spindle runs any time the motor runs and they have been using it that way. If the clutch is trash and they just cobbled it together so they could use it, any idea what am I looking at $ wise, and are parts available.

#2 The threading feed screw does not turn. I can turn it easy with my fingers and feels smooth. Is there a sheer pin on it. Probably related, of the 3 levers on the feed gear box above the joystick, the one on the right feels like it is not connected to anything.

Could that have left it between 2 gears so the feed screw does not turn. Again any wide guesses as to what I'm up against. It has been at this shop doing one job that did not need the problems fixed, at least that is what he said. I've about decided it is more of a project than I need but thought I would ask anyway. What do they do if they want to run in reverse? You need to remove the clutch cover plate at the back of the headstock and have a look inside. The central bobbin in between the two clutches should slide freely from side to side.

It should engage with a positive clunk when going in either forward or reverse. I can't remember if there's a shear pin or not, I've changed feed box shear pins on the smaller 'Colchesters' but I've never changed one on the bigger machines.

I seem to remember the shear pins I did change being on the input side of the feed box not the out put side. Regards Tyrone. One job machines are frequently set-up to be driven by one job or low skilled operators so its quite likely for something to have been removed from the QC gear change mechanics simply to stop any lever pulling games selecting screw cutting rather than feed and confusing the driver. If the power feed side works fine bringing the screw cutting back shouldn't be too expensive. But do verify that the half nuts and other gubbins are still in the saddle and functional. Clutches are tough but they do inevitably wear as being designed to slip whilst the spindle comes up to speed and require adjustment which often proves too hard for low end mechanics.

$64,000 question is has the thing been locked up tight 'cos they couldn't figure the adjustment or is it sufficiently worn so as to be beyond adjustment anyway without spending big ass £. Inverter drives aren't unreasonably expensive and give effective reverse / run up to speed functions. If everything else checks out and the price is still right after adding an inverter its probably not worth worrying about the clutch. If you can get the clutch to work then its more of a bargain. Frequency drive is the way to solve the clutch issue if its broken badly or to expensive to repair. But make sure sure you get enough torque in the low rpm´s as for threadcutting and turning max od. You should see to that you have good filter (if in homeconditions), brake-resistors, analog input to control rpm - that you can use for 'constant' sfm when facing etc.

Device like above is however somewhat costly and you might end up paying as much as for the lathe itself. I would be very surprised if there is no shear pin or similar device on the lead screw but be prepared it might cost. Halfnuts you should be able to check that they are in place and doing something by first closing the halfnuts and then try to move the saddle. Also u can try rotating the lead screw by hand, should actually move the saddle. Is the lead screw going inside the gearbox un-divided?

If not you should have a drive shaft coming out of the gear box connection to the leadscrew just outside with possible shearpin connecting them. There are very few free lunches.

I am going to be recieving a very sentimental and hard worked 1960 clausing colchester mascot engine lathe. The lathe was finally retired about two years ago as it was starting to no longer be able to maintain a size. I am planning on restoring the lathe to good working order and I am curious if anyone has sources for parts or even a manual for the machine as I am certain the manual is not with the machine anymore. Questions I have for anyone that can be of assistance. The gibbs or jibbs in europe I believe, I am certain they are worn beyond repair. Anyone have tips on where to find them, or know of a gibb manufacturing company. I do not have a mill with the travel to manufacture my own gibbs.

Sweet dreams kristen ashley epub. 2.The spindle nose is threaded, since I have never disassembled or used a threaded spindle, does anyone make a good chuck for this machine. And also what is involved in changing to a camlock system. And not to mention do you have any tips or instructions for changing the chuck as I have never removed a threaded chuck before. 3.What kind of paint should I use on the tailstock and steady rest, the casting is almost completely bare on the steady and tailstock so I was going to media blast the casting (taping off the contact surfaces of course) what kind of paint will stick, or should I have it powder coated? 4.How much work is it to completely remove the carrage, I have removed the cross side and scraped the gibbs before, but I have never taken a carrage off to inspect the halfnut and carrage gears. 5.Bed repair, would it be possible to retain some accuracy by simply honing the bed by hand, or would a complete grind be necessacary. While I know most of the questions are situational and depend on what I am willing to spend, how much I care for it, and what I am doing with the machine I would appreciate any help regarding the machine.

Also if I can get the machine into near original working order I may even try and make industry parts with it. Also note the machine is being gifted to be so I have 0 money into it so far. If this was the early model Mascot, and not the 1600 model, this is what it has for a spindle and chuck mounting. The 3.125' bore headstock spindle was machined from a heat-treated, high tensile steel forging and ran in a pair of 'Gamet Super High Precision' low-angle, double-row cylindrical taper roller bearings at the front and a single, automatically adjusted, taper roller bearing at the rear. It carried a hardened American L2 (long-taper) nose, a popular and very effective design that consisted of a large screwed ring, captive on the headstock spindle, with a matching thread and keyed taper in the chuck backplate. Unfortunately, the various sizes of this fitting are easily confused by the inexperienced and legion are the number of chucks and backplates that have been bought in error. If you look carefully the size is (usually) stamped somewhere on these spindle fittings but, if not, do your homework, and use a ruler.

And when you`re finished it will still be worth $2-300.Nope. To you that is. Mark makes a common error when valuing refurbished kit which is capable of useful work. Its value to you is what it would cost on the open market to buy a machine ready to go and capable of equally good work after a simply dropping into the shop and connecting up. £200 to £300 may be all it would fetch on E-Bay from 'prudent buyer who doesn't know the history', transport & installation costs eat you alive on machines this big, but I'd guess it would cost at least £ 2,000 for a decent ready to go machine of similar size in the shop. More from a dealer with some sort of quality check & warranty.

Even then it would be a more modern machine with extra complexity giving potential fix-it problems down the line. Old Mascot is still just about simple enough for make-the-bits mending to be satisfactory for home shop duties, anything beyond that is a scrapping fault anyway whatever the machine.

Of course you could be lucky and find one that has just been done-up for that £200 to £330 (plus £600 up to shift it) market value. Usually takes years to find and, in my experience, the ideal turns up 6 months after you've bought a £350 project. Bed wear is rarely a problem.

If its bad enough to need fixing for home shop use the lathe is getting towards scrapper territory anyway. Moglice or similar build up on the saddle is usually more than good enough to bring anything worth doing back into workmanlike useable territory. Unless a big lathe has been hammered to bits by uncaring users on production work they are remarkably durable. Looks pretty bad frequently translates to lots less serious in practice on inspection. Another point on project valuation is to factor in the other hobby spending you are not doing 'cos you are beavering away on the lathe. I figure golf club membership would cost lots more. Not that I want to play golf.

Often wonder what the guys who invented the game were on at the time. To you that is. Mark makes a common error when valuing refurbished kit which is capable of useful work. Its value to you is what it would cost on the open market to buy a machine ready to go and capable of equally good work after a simply dropping into the shop and connecting up. £200 to £300 may be all it would fetch on E-Bay from 'prudent buyer who doesn't know the history', transport & installation costs eat you alive on machines this big, but I'd guess it would cost at least £ 2,000 for a decent ready to go machine of similar size in the shop. More from a dealer with some sort of quality check & warranty. Even then it would be a more modern machine with extra complexity giving potential fix-it problems down the line.

Colchester Mascot 1600 Manual

Old Mascot is still just about simple enough for make-the-bits mending to be satisfactory for home shop duties, anything beyond that is a scrapping fault anyway whatever the machine. Of course you could be lucky and find one that has just been done-up for that £200 to £330 (plus £600 up to shift it) market value. Usually takes years to find and, in my experience, the ideal turns up 6 months after you've bought a £350 project.

Bed wear is rarely a problem. If its bad enough to need fixing for home shop use the lathe is getting towards scrapper territory anyway. Moglice or similar build up on the saddle is usually more than good enough to bring anything worth doing back into workmanlike useable territory. Unless a big lathe has been hammered to bits by uncaring users on production work they are remarkably durable.

Looks pretty bad frequently translates to lots less serious in practice on inspection. Another point on project valuation is to factor in the other hobby spending you are not doing 'cos you are beavering away on the lathe.

I figure golf club membership would cost lots more. Not that I want to play golf. Often wonder what the guys who invented the game were on at the time.

To you that is. Mark makes a common error when valuing refurbished kit which is capable of useful work. Its value to you is what it would cost on the open market to buy a machine ready to go and capable of equally good work after a simply dropping into the shop and connecting up. £200 to £300 may be all it would fetch on E-Bay from 'prudent buyer who doesn't know the history', transport & installation costs eat you alive on machines this big, but I'd guess it would cost at least £ 2,000 for a decent ready to go machine of similar size in the shop. More from a dealer with some sort of quality check & warranty. Even then it would be a more modern machine with extra complexity giving potential fix-it problems down the line.

Old Mascot is still just about simple enough for make-the-bits mending to be satisfactory for home shop duties, anything beyond that is a scrapping fault anyway whatever the machine. Of course you could be lucky and find one that has just been done-up for that £200 to £330 (plus £600 up to shift it) market value.

Usually takes years to find and, in my experience, the ideal turns up 6 months after you've bought a £350 project. Bed wear is rarely a problem. If its bad enough to need fixing for home shop use the lathe is getting towards scrapper territory anyway. Moglice or similar build up on the saddle is usually more than good enough to bring anything worth doing back into workmanlike useable territory.

Unless a big lathe has been hammered to bits by uncaring users on production work they are remarkably durable. Looks pretty bad frequently translates to lots less serious in practice on inspection. CliveClive,Mark has been working on machine tools for forty five years,buying and selling them for my business use for thirty years.Judging by your comments here,you have read a lot of books. This is a Colchester we are talking about here,not a quality machine tool to start with and,one that is fifty years old. You gloss over the problem of bed wear by saying a bit of Moglice on the saddle will cure that.Have you ever used Moglice for such an application?The material is eminently suitable for this use,I have ten ton cnc lathes that are manufactured new using Moglice but it`s not a ten minute operation to set up the machine and pour the Moglice.

And the biggest problem with this suggestion and one which highlights your lack of experience in this is the fact that bed wear occurs at the chuck end of the bed,now please tell how Moglicing the saddle is going to cure this. As for the statement bed wear is rarely a problem,how do you get a nicely adjusted saddle if there is 0.030' of wear on the bed.Some Colchesters have hardened beds,not enough to stop them wearing. Assume wear in the spindle bearings.How much are replacements going to cost,bearing in mind they are Gamet bearings and there are no of the shelf substitutes.600 group price will be over £1000. If it has been used at all the headstock will be noisy,no cure for that unless you replace every gear and bearing. Have you ever looked at a twenty year old Colchester apron,usually well worn. Not saying it can`t be repaired but you would have to chuck thousands at it and it still would not be a quality machine. If it has a lot of sentimental value,clean it,paint it and polish it but don`t throw thousands of hard earned $/£`s at it.

The only people in this world who think old Colchesters are good machines are people who have never used anything other than Myfords or Colchesters.